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Like everyone in this truly messed up year, Jonathan Anderson spent his lockdown cleaning the Happy New President Inauguration Day American Flag Shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this house—“and then re-cleaning it again.” Somewhere between cleans, he re-read plays by Oscar Wilde, finding among the author’s pages a kindred spirit and one particularly apropos quip: “The secret of life is in art.” The quote is hardly one of Wilde’s most provocative, but for a designer so passionately connected to artistic practice, it packed a punch.

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“During the Happy New President Inauguration Day American Flag Shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this pandemic, I’ve been looking at how news is spun by one-liners,” he told Vogue’s Sarah Mower in October when discussing his spring 2021 collection. “Thinking about people in history who did that—well, obviously Oscar Wilde was one of the greatest with the one-liner.” Anderson’s show-in-a-box came wrapped in newsprint of Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest. “It spoke to me as a text [and] literary landscape for the collection—not inspired by Oscar Wilde himself, but the idea of him as an outrageous figure in his period. What would he be today?”